Winners and Losers in Luxury: 50 Years of Fashion, Fortune, and Forward Thinking
May 12, 2025
In the world of luxury, brands rise, fall, adapt—or fade away. Over the last 50 years, the luxury fashion, accessories, and jewelry industries have undergone seismic shifts—shaped by global economic cycles, technological disruption, and generational changes in consumer behavior. While titans like LVMH and Richemont continue to dominate, others have struggled to maintain relevance in an increasingly fast-moving, digital-first world.
This article explores the top luxury brands that have experienced the most significant growth, those that have declined from industry leadership, companies that have filed for bankruptcy, current brand valuations, and the evolution of the Swiss watch market in the era of wearable tech.
The Fastest-Growing Luxury Brands (1975–2025)
Louis Vuitton / LVMH No luxury conversation is complete without LVMH. Over the last five decades, Louis Vuitton has grown from a respected French trunk maker to the crown jewel of the world’s largest luxury conglomerate. Under Bernard Arnault’s leadership, LVMH expanded via acquisition and savvy brand repositioning, absorbing brands like Dior, Bulgari, and Tiffany & Co. The group’s approach to craftsmanship, marketing, and global expansion has set the benchmark.
- Valuation (2025): Over $500 billion (LVMH Group)
- Growth Drivers: Global expansion, vertical integration, celebrity collaborations, and robust e-commerce channels.
Rolex Though private and notoriously secretive, Rolex has retained its prestige and pricing power. It leads the luxury watch market in both volume and resale value, especially among collectors and affluent buyers in Asia and North America.
- Est. Brand Value: ~$9 billion
- Position: Top in Swiss watch unit sales and resale reliability.
Hermès This family-run house exemplifies scarcity marketing. Despite fewer product launches, Hermès has seen meteoric increases in value thanks to unmatched craftsmanship and long waiting lists for its Birkin and Kelly bags.
- Valuation (2025): Over $200 billion
- Notable Growth: Stock price up more than 1,000% since the early 2000s.
Gucci (Kering Group) Gucci has reinvented itself multiple times. From Tom Ford’s sultry minimalism to Alessandro Michele’s maximalist revival, the brand has surged in global appeal—particularly among younger buyers and influencers.
- Est. Revenue (2023): ~$11 billion
- Key to Growth: Digital marketing, Gen Z appeal, and edgy brand storytelling.
Chanel Still privately owned by the Wertheimer family, Chanel has remained iconic while cautiously adapting. It’s maintained tight control over distribution and brand image, preserving exclusivity.
- Est. Value (2025): $150B–$200B
- Recent Growth: Expanded into skincare, men’s beauty, and digital storytelling.
Cartier Cartier, the flagship of Richemont’s jewelry portfolio, has seen global expansion with a blend of iconic design (e.g., Love and Panthère collections) and refined brand management.
- Valuation Estimate: ~$15B
- Notable Strategy: Strong presence in Asia, experiential retail, and high jewelry.
Tiffany & Co. (Now part of LVMH) After its acquisition by LVMH in 2021, Tiffany has undergone significant rebranding and modernization, with focus on attracting younger consumers.
- Valuation at Acquisition: ~$16B
- Recent Push: Revitalized flagship stores, ambassador campaigns, and elevated product lines.
Once-Titanic Brands That Declined
Escada Once the epitome of 1980s power fashion, Escada filed for bankruptcy in 2009. Despite relaunch efforts, the brand never fully reconnected with a modern consumer base.
Brooks Brothers Though more high-end heritage than true luxury, Brooks Brothers was once a bastion of American menswear. But as workwear casualized, it lost its foothold and filed for bankruptcy in 2020.
Pierre Cardin & Geoffrey Beene Once pioneering names, both brands saw rapid decline due to over-licensing, dilution, and a failure to innovate. From high fashion to overexposed department store labels, they became cautionary tales.
Calvin Klein Collection Once an influential force in minimalism and red-carpet fashion, Calvin Klein’s luxury ready-to-wear line was shuttered after a failed rebrand under Raf Simons. Parent company PVH redirected focus to mass-market lines.
Bankruptcies and Major Restructurings
- Barneys New York – Filed for bankruptcy in 2019; acquired by Authentic Brands Group.
- Neiman Marcus – Filed Chapter 11 in 2020; emerged after major debt restructuring.
- Escada – Filed bankruptcy twice; now operates minimally.
- Diesel USA – Filed Chapter 11 in 2019 due to overexpansion and real estate liabilities.
- Lanvin Group – Once stagnant, now attempting a digital-driven comeback via Fosun.
Luxury Brand Valuations: 2025 Snapshot
Brand2025 Est. ValueParent GroupLouis Vuitton$500B+LVMHHermès$200B+IndependentChanel$150B–$200BWertheimer FamilyGucci~$80BKeringCartier~$15BRichemontRolex~$9BIndependentTiffany & Co.~$16BLVMH
Note: Based on public filings, industry estimates, and M&A benchmarks.
The Swiss Watch Market: Losing Time or Just Changing Hands?
The Swiss watch industry—long synonymous with elite precision—has faced disruption from wearable tech. Yet, it’s far from obsolete.
Apple Watch Effect Since 2015, Apple Watch has outpaced the Swiss industry in annual units. While not direct competition for Rolex or Patek Philippe, it dominates the entry-level and casual timepiece market.
- 2023 Shipments: Over 50 million units
- Target Market: Fitness-conscious and tech-first consumers
Mixed Signals in Swiss Sales
- Entry-to-mid tier brands like Tissot and TAG Heuer have seen decline.
- High-end brands like Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, and Richard Mille continue to thrive with waitlists and rising resale prices.
- Pre-owned market has exploded, driven by platforms like Chrono24 and WatchBox.
The Wearable Threat Garmin, Samsung, and Fitbit watches now dominate daily-wear segments that once belonged to casual Swiss pieces like Swatch and Raymond Weil. The industry response includes smart-hybrids, connected watches, and luxury tech collaborations.
Bridging Analog & Digital Some Swiss houses are experimenting with digital-analog hybrids, embedded chipsets, or companion apps. Others partner with fashion and tech brands to expand appeal. However, the halo of mechanical prestige remains strong among purists.
Conclusion: Adapt or Fade
Luxury brands that have endured, or even accelerated, their growth over the last 50 years share common traits:
- Relentless innovation without compromising identity
- Authentic engagement with emerging generations
- Control over brand equity and distribution
- Resilience through diversification (product, geography, channel)
Those that failed to evolve have become relics. In an age of ultra-personalized, tech-integrated, values-driven consumption, the winners will be those who not only craft luxury but narrate it across generations and formats.
Luxury, today, is less about what you wear and more about what your choices signal. And in that game, the best brands are still learning how to stay timeless.
Paul Fioravanti, MBA, MPA, CTP, is the CEO & Managing Partner of QORVAL Partners, LLC, a FL-based advisory firm (founded 1996 by Jim Malone, (1942-2021) six-time Fortune 100/500 CEO) Qorval is a US-based growth and exit advisory, turnaround, restructuring, business optimization and interim management firm. Fioravanti is a proven advisor and CEO with experience in more than 90 situations in more than 40 industries. He earned his MBA and MPA from The University of Rhode Island and completed advanced post-master’s research in finance and marketing at Bryant University. He is a Certified Turnaround Professional and member of the Turnaround Management Association, the Private Directors Association, Association for Corporate Growth (ACG), Association of Merger & Acquisition Advisors (AM&MA), the American Bankruptcy Institute, and IMCUSA. Copyright 2025, Qorval Partners LLC and/or Paul Fioravanti, MBA, MPA, CTP. All rights reserved. No reproduction or redistribution without permission.
239 588 0008
#qorval
#familybusiness
#generations
#deals
#privateequity
Need to grow, fix or exit your business?
